Many of us consider water to be "harsh" if there are huge amounts of minerals like magnesium and/or calcium. Although it's a common misconception that hard water is always unhealthy for consumption, but instead it leaves a white buildup over the kitchen faucets and showerheads. Also, harsh water tends to minimize the soap's ability to clean properly which means you end up using more detergent to wash your laundry and more liquid soap to clean the dishes. While using water softeners, the mechanism calls for the devise to remove the minerals. Using soft water eliminates the build up over faucets and pipes, plus another advantage is that you go through less detergents and liquid soaps than you would with harsh water. So the unwanted minerals are replaced with necessary sodium and/or potassium ions. Read more on water softeners: how they work.
Repairing Water Softeners
At times, water softeners need to be repaired because of any issues with the control valve. You can either replace the valve with the distributor tube also. Another repair that might need your attention is the resin beads which needs to be replaced as they tend to wear out. No matter what the problem, the following steps will help you in understanding how to repair water softeners.
Materials Needed
Step #2: A regular inspection is needed (at least once a month) to determine the exact quantity of salt left in the tank. A common error that occurs is that the water softener is out of salt (sodium chloride). You see, salt gets mixed inside the brine tank so that it can work its magic in removing the minerals from the harsh water. While filling the brine tank, you need to keep in mind that there is no trace of salt left and the tank gets refilled with 2/3 with rock salt or evaporated salt.
Step #3: Do a yearly inspection of the brine tank or else you will end up with salt domes in the tank itself. You will use the broom to scrape off extra salt or salt domes. Take a vacuum to remove all the unwanted sediments, apply soap and water to clean the tank.
Step #4: As you finish cleaning the brine tank, inspect the resin bed as well. See if it requires a cleaning as well. This bed is exactly next to the brine tank you just cleaned. The resin bed is responsible of the actual "softening" of the water. The minerals like iron, manganese, and silt are the ones that inflict issues inside the resin bed. You can use the chemicals mentioned in the materials needed list: Sodium hydrosulfite compound, phosphoric acid cleaner, and citric acid cleaner.
Step #5: To finish cleaning the resin bed, you will clear the injector first. Let the softener go through a cycle of manual cleanup, and then move on to the injector and the screen attached to it. This injector also gets clotted at times with the sediments that creep inside the softener with the salt.
Using rock salt is the best option as it is less expensive, but it does require more attention towards the water softener maintenance aspect of the softener. If you don't feel you have done an efficient job at the water softener repair, get a handy man to take a look at your final work.
Repairing Water Softeners
At times, water softeners need to be repaired because of any issues with the control valve. You can either replace the valve with the distributor tube also. Another repair that might need your attention is the resin beads which needs to be replaced as they tend to wear out. No matter what the problem, the following steps will help you in understanding how to repair water softeners.
Materials Needed
- Water softener
- Water
- Vacuum
- Broom
- Salt
- Soap
- Sodium hydrosulfite compound
- Citric acid cleaner
- Phosphoric acid cleaner or hydrochloric acid
Step #2: A regular inspection is needed (at least once a month) to determine the exact quantity of salt left in the tank. A common error that occurs is that the water softener is out of salt (sodium chloride). You see, salt gets mixed inside the brine tank so that it can work its magic in removing the minerals from the harsh water. While filling the brine tank, you need to keep in mind that there is no trace of salt left and the tank gets refilled with 2/3 with rock salt or evaporated salt.
Step #3: Do a yearly inspection of the brine tank or else you will end up with salt domes in the tank itself. You will use the broom to scrape off extra salt or salt domes. Take a vacuum to remove all the unwanted sediments, apply soap and water to clean the tank.
Step #4: As you finish cleaning the brine tank, inspect the resin bed as well. See if it requires a cleaning as well. This bed is exactly next to the brine tank you just cleaned. The resin bed is responsible of the actual "softening" of the water. The minerals like iron, manganese, and silt are the ones that inflict issues inside the resin bed. You can use the chemicals mentioned in the materials needed list: Sodium hydrosulfite compound, phosphoric acid cleaner, and citric acid cleaner.
Step #5: To finish cleaning the resin bed, you will clear the injector first. Let the softener go through a cycle of manual cleanup, and then move on to the injector and the screen attached to it. This injector also gets clotted at times with the sediments that creep inside the softener with the salt.
Using rock salt is the best option as it is less expensive, but it does require more attention towards the water softener maintenance aspect of the softener. If you don't feel you have done an efficient job at the water softener repair, get a handy man to take a look at your final work.
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